Promotes indigenous forestry (including timber production), to manages these forests in
an ecologically sustainable fashion so that they retain their unique characteristics for the
benefit of future generations.
Indigena is the quarterly journal of the Indigenous Section of the NZFFA. The journal includes articles relating to all aspects of indigenous forestry such as sustainable management for conservation, biodiversity enhancement and wood production, as well as riparian management, shelter and amenity, establishment of native trees, and the restoration of degraded areas of native vegetation.
Members of the Indigenous Forest Section receive Indigena as part of their subscription. To join the section contact Head Office of the NZFFA.
Copies of Indigena are also available to non-members at $10 per issue, $40 for four issues, including postage. Contact John Wardle, PO Box 40, Oxford, Canterbury. Make cheques payable to the Indigenous Forest Section NZFFA.
Natives for Timber or Amenity
Introduction
June 2008
Nothing can be more rewarding for a forester than creating and nurturing a native
plantation from 10 years on their size, growth rate, form
and rapid maturation looks and feels more like our natural bush!!! But behind every success
story there is a lot of work, and many others that
have failed!! This article is written on the assumption you are interested in planting a 0.4
hectare block or more. Naturally established natives
are generally not included in this summary. Nursery grown stock is not covered.
Planning
Natives take a long time to establish. It may be 3-4 years after planting before you can be
assured they are reasonably established. That
translates into high costs allow $9-$10 per tree or shrub! A budget will be imperative to see
you have enough money!!
But before you plant, check your local District Plan carefully! Dont just take your council
employees information as gospel either. A recent
survey found many council employees gave out incorrect information on native plantings.
Get a copy of the District Plan and research it
carefully. Or talk to someone who has. Most District Plans have scattered, unrelated and
conflicting references to forestry, and natives. Check the
definitions! Forestry and natives may or may not be mutually exclusive terms. Some District
Plans do not allow cutting down of any natives,
planted or natural, over 3 metres in height. If you need a consent, get one! After your
research, get a written affirmation from the council as to
what the rules are, before you plant one stick, and keep this copy for ever! Also, check with
your Regional Councils they are usually more
helpful but only cover water and pest management concerns.
Outside of local council rules, generally the law; allows you to harvest native trees that have
been planted unless you give up that right. Try to
get the council to write down or register the details of the natives you have
planted.
Tax Deductibility
This varies according to whether you are in business (by IRD rules) as a farmer, a forester, or
a property developer! To be a forester, 2 hectares
is often considered the minimum forested area, to show you are not a hobbyist. If the district
plan disallows cutting down trees at the time you
put your plantation in, you will not have a forestry business!
Most plantings will hopefully be deductible check with your chartered accountant consider
using a company as natives are long term, and
share ownership can protect you from a deemed sale. For your protection, make sure any
purchase of an existing block (including natural bush)
has an agreed valuation on the trees in the sale and purchase agreement. Forestry rightsmay
also be useful planning tools.
Planting
The aim is to effect rapid crown cover, self sustaining growth and to shut out weeds.
Anything over 2m x 2m initial planting spacing
compromises this. Plant a tree height that can quickly get over grass height, but will not be
socketed by wind and not sulk! Unless you are
coastal, or a beech grower(!), hardwoods often require an already established nurse
crop...quite a management art that!
Weeds
Grass is your biggest threat in the first few years. Later on blackberry eventually establishes
with any extra light and pulls down established trees
- hence rapid canopy closure is the aim. The shrubby natives give your best crown closure.
Gorse should be cleared before planting, and
followed up with spot sprays.
Roundup and Galant (kills grasses only) can be used from planting and onwards. Residual
weedicides knock natives. The spots around trees
need to be at least 1m in diameter to stop grass falling in wider on the high side if sloping
ground. Four to five sprays may be needed
through to year 3, depending on growth. Costs 30¢-35¢ per plant per time sprayed.
Weedmats and mulches can be tried but they may stop
summer rainfall being effective unless well designed and may be more labour intensive.
Anyone want to try layers of plastic from balewrap with
a few pitch fork holes in it, for aiding water run in?
Tending
The jury is out on this still! Much will depend on your management. Pure specie stands will
require thinning. Mixed timber trees with fast growth
shrubs may well require earlier releasing and then later thinning. Blocks close to existing
natural bush stands will more quickly have natural
bush species introducing themselves. To make sure you have sufficient timber crop trees,
pruning may well be wise. Prune similar to that done
for Acacia melanoxylon: i.e. three rules:
If a branch is over 3 cm in diameter, take it off!
If the branch is 30 degrees or less to the main stem it is a steep angled branch; take if
off no matter what the size!
Check the top 3 metres of the tree and form prune, so that you leave only one leader,
now! All the rest of the branches should be retained
to help maintain the rapid growth you want.
For older existing trees of poor form give them a go prune them now youll always look
back later glad that you did. Take up that jacksaw
or chainsaw!
Final spacing?? Check known natural stands final spacing of the age you hope to harvest at.
Acacia melanoxylon growers aim for fast fat trees in
35-40 years. They want one good 6m log-tree about 200 stems per hectare final spacing.
Podocarps can grow closer than that, and have better
apical dominance and naturally good timber form!
Consider tending cost!!! Most natives respond to pruning. But with the long wait, will the
outlay justify the cost? Should you management system
reduce this? (e.g. planting into manuka/kanuka? Will you be patient for results? Will higher
fire risk be a threat?) Prune for love and it wont
matter!!
Species Choice
Totara and Kauri: Well known, fast, some research results available already, prime timber
species.
Silver Beech and Black Beech: Have surprisingly fast growth rates most places in the North
Island. Red beech is less reliable to establish. Correct
beech soil mycorhiza should be included with your planted trees. Check what your
nurseryman does (or knows!)
Kahikatea and Tanekaha: Less favoured timber species but fast growth in a wide variety of
sites. Dont stake drooping tanakaha leaders. Theyll
right themselves.
Karamu: One of the fastest, best performing shrubby canopy covers!
Puriri, Rewarewa, Kokekohe & Mangeao: Most favoured manageable hardwoods for the North
Island.
This article is based on a few peoples experiences only. The following publications and
organisations and their field days are thoroughly
recommended for building your own knowledge, observations and contacts:
References
NZ Tree Grower articles (NZ Farm Forestry Association and their Indigenous Action Group, P
O Box 1122, Wellington)
Ph 04- 472-0432.
Indigenous Forestry Sustainable Management, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry &
Fisheries.
Tane Tree Trust; Leaflets & Field days, c/- I Barton, 40 Isabelle St, Pukekohe. Ph 09 239-2049
