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Instability in lusitanica – a learning curve
Ian Brown
New Zealand Tree
Grower May 2005
I
am a fan of cypress, and have been growing them with variable success
for 25 years. What I have referred to as a learning curve might equally
be described as a catalogue of mistakes.
Toughing out in the Far North
In
1983 we planted 300 Cupressus lusitanica on a difficult slope near a
boundary on our Northland property. The site is elevated, steep and
exposed to prevailing south west winds as well as to periodic north
east gales which are often accompanied by heavy rains. The soils are
rocky, and infertile, and much of the planting was done by crowbar with
little attention to root orientation. The trees were essentially
fillers, simply occupying an unwanted space. We planted at 200 stems
per hectare, pruned to four metres and I anticipated trouble with wind
throw. To my surprise we had no problems, and after a slow start the
trees thrived. They have remained stable, and are looking quite
impressive at 22 years.
I assume that because they had to tough it
out at the start, they were forced to adjust to the winds. The low site
fertility ensured a limited sail area and encouraged the roots to
forage among the rocks for water and nutrients.
A better site at Pirongia, Waikato
In
1997 we planted over 3,000 lusitanica on a much better site which had
been recently farmed. It is relatively flat, fertile, and with
free-draining volcanic soil. It is elevated, in parts exposed to winds,
and has high rainfall.
Again I anticipated some wind throw and
planted the trees in groups, partly for mutual protection and for other
reasons about which I have some reservations. On this occasion we were
able to plant carefully, with the pull-up method that ensured even root
spread. For protection from wind we inter-planted with pines and
released the cypress by spray over two summers.

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| C.
lusitanica approaching eight
years mixed with pines ring-barked at age six. |
Starting to topple
At
about 18 months things started to go wrong. The trees grew vigorously
outpacing the pines for the first three years, but in the autumn
preceding the second winter they began to topple in strong winds. I
then spent some time pruning, taking the best two trees in each group
to half their height, and followed through with an annual prune. It
worked, and losses from wind throw were relatively slight, but it meant
a lot of work and was a close run thing.
By year three the trees
stabilised, with an occasional tree blown down. I expect that on
exposed patches occasional losses will continue.
I surmise that the
main cause of instability in this location, and the chief point of
distinction from the Northland site, is the higher rainfall and soil
fertility, which encouraged vigorous foliage growth and discouraged
root development. I did not help by releasing the trees in the second
summer. This was clearly a mistake, allowing pugging after heavy rain
and reducing root competition.
On an adjacent area we planted small blocks of Leyland cypresss and
C. ovensii in pasture and at final
spacing, and with one release spray. The Leylands were predictably
stable, but surprisingly the
C.ovensii,
which have a reputation for instability were equally stable.
Pruning trial
At
18 months I set up a small trial to assess the effectiveness of pruning
in reducing instability. I selected 360 trees in an area that was
particularly exposed to wind, and allotted the trees in each group to
three treatments. The trees selected for pruning were treated annually
for four years.
The control group was unpruned, a second group was
clearwood pruned to half the height, and the third group had branches
shortened to half the height, removing over half the length of the
branches.
At age seven I assessed 100 groups – 300 trees – measuring
diameter and checking for wind throw. With regard to diameter there was
no difference between any of the three groups. Both pruning methods
were equally effective in reducing wind throw, limiting it to one third
of the incidence in the unpruned trees in which 19 trees were affected.
It
was clear that on this site neither pruning method had any adverse
effect on diameter growth, but both resulted in a significant reduction
in the incidence of wind throw.
Branch shortening
It is
clearly preferable to prune branches once rather than in two stages.
However there are occasions where branch shortening can be useful.
The
first of these is in an emergency when toppling is imminent and there
is little time. Branches can be sheared quickly with a powered hedge
trimmer. With lusitanica planted on fertile sites, the time of
particular risk is during the autumn winds after the second summer. The
shortened branches can later be removed at leisure.
Secondly it is
useful to shorten any large branches that remain in the crown after
completing a pruning lift. These branches are generally located at
levels in the crown where growth had resumed in spring after a period
of winter quiescence, or in response to damage to the terminal shoot.
Inter-planting with radiata
We
planted pines in the gaps between the groups of cypress. The aim was
partly to reduce branch size to make easier pruning and to limit the
defect core. In this it has been effective. However with regard to
reducing toppling I am still undecided.
The pines, which were
planted at the same time as the cypress, were too small to act as
protection at the most vulnerable time in the second winter. To do so
they would have had to be planted one or two years in advance.
Toppling reduced
After
three years the incidence of toppling dropped sharply. Whether this was
due the protective influence of the pines, or the stabilizing influence
of maturity in the cypress was not clear – I suspect it was a bit of
each.
In these fertile conditions the cypress outpaced the pines for
the first three years. The pines caught up by year four and were
clearly dominant by year six. The period of time in which they might
have been contributing to stability was therefore limited. By year
six they were potentially threatening.
The pines can be disposed of
by either felling them or slow death by ring-barking. Our previous
experience had shown that on this type of site the pines must be felled
by year six, before the final and most difficult stages of cypress
pruning have been completed. The resultant pine debris makes access to
them difficult. The cypress are then exposed to wind, with resultant
losses for at least a year until they stabilise. In contrast, slow
death by ring-barking has the advantage of allowing continuing
access for two years for completion of silvicultural work. It gives
time for the cypress to adjust to exposure as the pines gradually lose
their foliage.
Ring-barking protecting trees
Ring-barking is not difficult if done correctly, and I have learned a
couple of tricks from Geoff Brann.
Ring-barking
must be done in spring, when the bark can be stripped off easily. This
allows a generous segment of bark to be removed. It is important to use
the right tool – an old-fashioned carpenter’s draw knife, which is like
a giant spoke shave, is very effective. It takes me about a minute to
deal with each tree.
Ring-barking must be done before the tree is
too big. In older trees when the bark is thick and corrugated it is
hard work and difficult to remove long segments. It is easy to leave
strips of cambium which re-establish a vascular connection and keep the
tree alive.
As ring-barking works indirectly by depriving the roots
of nutrients, it takes about 18 months for the tree to die. I dealt
with my trees at year six, at which time some of them were getting
uncomfortably large. I should have attacked them a year earlier.
The
dead trees should not be left to fall naturally. Apart from the safety
risks imposed by hung trees, they can destroy adjacent trees as they
fall. When the cypresses have had time to adjust to wind exposure, the
pines should be directionally felled.
Too much protection
Clearly
cypress benefit from protection from strong winds. At the same time
there is a risk in overprotection. They should be allowed limited
exposure, especially when young, to toughen them up so that they can
resist more severe wind events later. This became apparent when I used
tree shelters to protect a group of lusitanica against damage by hares.
Because of stress-shielding most of the trees toppled when the shelters
were removed. In addition, some of the surviving trees toppled several
years later.
This suggests that the development and orientation of
their roots may be determined very early, that this process might be
responsive to wind stresses, and when established could be irreversible.
Summarising the solutions
It
has been clearly shown the most important cause of toppling in radiata
pine is root distortion caused by poor planting technique. The same is
true of cypress. However the story does not end there. You cannot
always blame the tree planter as lusitanica is inherently unstable in
certain conditions. It is useful to have some awareness of site factors
that predispose to instability, and of some strategies that will
minimise it.
These site factors include areas of high risk such as
fertile North Island farm sites when periodically high winds are
accompanied by heavy rain. As with radiata, the time of greatest risk
is the second winter after planting. It is not easy to predict sites at
risk. They are not confined to areas exposed to prevailing winds. For
example fertile valley bottoms, where the trees are protected from
prevailing winds but exposed to infrequent wind storms from an unusual
quarter can be troublesome.
On sites at risk it does not pay to be
too kind. Do not encourage the crown by feeding the tree with
fertilisers. Encourage the roots to forage for nutrients. Do not
release them more than once, do not over protect from early wind
exposure and do not use tree shelters.
With regard to pruning on
fertile sites, be prepared to start as early as the second summer,
lightening the crown by either removing branches or shortening them.
Mixed planting may be helpful, but is not easily managed, and unless
done correctly can make matters worse. The big mistake is to delay
removing the nurse species.
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